One of the most influential names in jewelry-making history, Marina Bulgari left her family’s eponymous maison in 1976 to strike out on her own, opening the first Marina B showroom in Geneva in 1978. Honoring her heritage yet forging forward with audacious, contemporary designs, Bulgari experimented with unusual gemstone cuts and striking silhouettes. Today, the triangle motif has become a brand signature, with pieces from the Trisola and Triangolini collections offering a modern alternative to traditional bangles. This is a brand to be seen wearing – if you know, you know.
MARINA B |
MARINA B |
MARINA B |
MARINA B |
Published by NET-A-PORTER
Link to article : https://www.net-a-porter.com/en-gb/porter/article-15f409280d2eed7a/jewelry-watches/fine-jewelry/jewelry-names-to-know
Marina B
It looks like bold colors are all the rage these days! From glittering sapphires to striking rubies, golden hues, and even rainbow colored gemstones, it's clear that Marina B jewelry is totally in style.
Led by Creative Director Guy Bedarida and founded by the legendary Marina Bulgari, Marina B is one of the most iconic jewelry labels out there. Known for its boldness and timelessness of designs, gemstones and craftsmanship, the jewelry house brings us creations that embrace Marina's innovative aesthetic, from one-of-a-kind pieces to everyday favorites.
Marina B's style are sure to add unique touches to any outfit, from an everyday look to a glitzy night out. Whether you choose a single statement piece or layer several pieces together, Marina B jewelry will help you make a statement no matter what you're wearing. From necklaces and earrings to bracelets and rings, the possibilities are endless!
Published by Taroberri
Link to article: https://www.taroberri.com/marina-b/statement-check-from-marina-b-bringing-bold-colors-to-your-jewelry-wardrobe
Cocktail rings are a fun, flashy fashion statement for the unapologetically fabulous.
When it comes to grand, colorful statement pieces, the cocktail ring is a tried-and-true way to call attention to the hand. Large ornamental rings boasting emeralds, rubies, sapphires and diamonds are part of the repertoire at Bulgari, Cartier and the rest of the premier maisons. There were spectacular gems in the high-jewelry collections that Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Gucci unveiled last July. Gucci’s Alessandro Michele is a devotee of bold rings and featured fiery opals in his Hortus Deliciarum line. More recently, Tiffany & Co. introduced a series of rings by Paloma Picasso that frame vibrant precious gems in diamonds and gold.
Cocktail rings first appeared during the 1920s, when cocktails themselves were first invented to disguise alcohol during the Prohibition era and make bootlegged booze more palatable. Stylish, fashionable women started going to bars, intent on having a good time and often dripping in jewelry. The cocktail ring — a design generally defined as a ring with a large center stone surrounded by smaller stones — became symbolic of the era when these women flaunted their rebellious, illicit behavior. The look came back into fashion in the 1940s after the Great Depression, with women wearing lavish rings to parties, restaurants and the opera. Cocktail rings’ popularity faded in the 1970s, but they returned bigger and flashier than ever in the ’80s and have stuck around ever since.
Unlike some other rings, cocktail rings are not steeped in pledges of love and sentimentality; they are party jewels — joyful, playful, uplifting and fun to wear.
“I love cocktail rings because they bring out the individual in a woman,” says Lebanese jeweler Nada Ghazal, whose first rings for her brand were cocktail designs that won awards in 2011 and 2012. “Each woman wears hers differently…to accentuate her personal style.”
The spirit of Italian splendor hovers over the Marina B collection, which was founded by Marina Bulgari of the famed Italian jewelry family. New York-based designer Guy Bedarida has since taken over the brand, and he considers the cocktail category an important one for the company.
“Marina loved using big, bold gemstones and diamonds for statement rings through much of her designs, and I have carried on that heritage,” he says. “Every stone has a story, and I love that these rings represent our clients — bold, strong and independent.”
The category has been core to Irene Neuwirth’s work from the beginning. “Sometimes it is the simplicity of the setting that best highlights the beauty of the gem,” reflects the Los Angeles jeweler.
However, cocktail rings are fairly new for fellow Los Angeles brand Octavia Elizabeth. They appear in its Imogen and Blossom lines and have done exceedingly well, reports founder Octavia Zamagias. “Clients love that all our rings are one of a kind; they love the rarity and conversation that ensues [from wearing] them.”
Cocktail rings don’t fall in and out of fashion with the season, remarks Renato Alagao, the brand partnerships director at Los Angeles concept store Just One Eye. The rings spark “an emotional and very individual interest,” he says. “[People] come to us for something unique and for discovery.” For this reason, he picks designs from Daniela Villegas, Bibi van der Velden, Octavia Elizabeth, Sylvie Corbelin and Marina B, declaring them “works of art from an artisanal and engineering point of view.”
Historically, cocktail rings were big and flashy. Now, however, due to the decreasing supply and soaring prices of large gemstones, designers must be innovative. That can mean using semiprecious stones or getting creative with setting techniques.
Bedarida favors cabochon-cut tourmalines with diamond or sapphire melee around the stone and shank. Zamagias is also a fan of cabochons, particularly for rich, vibrant tanzanite and rubellite, as well as tourmalines and sapphires. “Elongated shapes like emerald cuts, ovals and radiant cuts are amazing for cocktail rings,” she states.
Neuwirth doesn’t let price points affect her creativity. “I’ve always believed in ‘the brighter, the better,’” she says, so her designs feature diamonds, turquoise, chrysoprase and opals. Ghazal’s approach is to focus initially on the sculptural volumes of her gold rings, then sprinkle them with a rainbow of pavé-set gems or an enamel pattern. This gets rid of the need for a large central stone. “Both techniques make the pieces accessible, which is a bonus,” she says.
As the festive season gets underway — and with the awards season hot on its heels — celebrity stylists are reaching out for all sorts of rings, including cocktail designs, says Zamagias. “In turn, we anticipate that our clients will start requesting these [following] award show season, [and there are even] a few notable celebrities who end up purchasing.”
The look isn’t just for big bashes, either. “They are perfect for parties and the red carpet,” says Neuwirth, “but also for everyday.”
Tourmaline
One of earth’s most colorful gemstones. Its wide variety of hues — from red and pink rubellite to watermelon and green tourmaline and blue indicolite — gives ring designers plenty of scope for big, bold looks. Cabochons in these eye-catching colors are often surrounded by smaller sapphires or pavé diamonds.
Opal
White, fire, and the rarer and much sought-after black opals are popular for their vibrant plays of color. Framing them with diamonds takes the sparkle up a notch, and they are versatile enough to wear
any time of day.
Diamonds
A central diamond on a cocktail ring is a sizable financial commitment, but there are ways of creating the necessary volume without investing in a big stone. Irene Neuwirth clusters seven small brilliants
into a large gold flower that resembles one large diamond, while Marina B’s Triangoli Boule ring geometrically plots small triangular-cut diamonds to create a voluminous domed effect.
Tanzanite, topaz and spessartine
These semiprecious stones are common choices for cocktail rings. Topaz is on Octavia Zamagias’s list of favorites for the variety of colors and cuts it offers, and she employs these in her brand’s latest collection. Meanwhile, fiery imperial topaz and spessartine feature in Paloma Picasso’s rings for Tiffany & Co.
Enamel
Using colored enamel to frame a small circle of diamonds around a central stone helps keep a cocktail ring accessibly priced. Alison Lou showcases larger rings with her signature enamel technique around the center stone, and Nada Ghazal’s sizable gold rings boast colorful enamel designs inspired by the ceilings and tiles of her native Beirut.
Pavé
This is a technique rather than a gemstone, but it’s a creative way to control costs. Setting a sculptural gold cocktail ring with melee of one gem like tsavorite or diamonds, or a rainbow of sapphires in patterns, can make for a dazzling effect.
Written by Francesca Fearon
Link to article: https://rapaport.com/magazine-article/pouring-on-the-glamour/
Being fascinated by small things is a helpful inclination for a jewelry designer.
At least that has been the case for Guy Bedarida, the creative director of the Italian fine jewelry brand Marina B. He has spent the last three decades collecting micromosaics, images created from tiny pieces of glass.
“I’ve always been amazed at little things — illuminated manuscripts, dollhouses and micromosaics,” Mr. Bedarida said in a phone interview from Bali, where he recently sold his former home. He now divides his time between Bangkok and New York — where Marina B is headquartered — and travels often to Milan, where its pieces are produced, and to Paris, where he has a pied-à-terre.
Mr. Bedarida said he was introduced to micromosaics as a young teenager in Rome, when his father, Paul, a French diplomat, started buying 19th-century parures in antiques stores for his mother, Gabriela. These sets of jewelry, intended to be worn together, often featured tiny images of birds, scarabs and scenes of the Roman Empire made of pâte de verre, or glass paste.
In a way, the jewelry was an extension of what Mr. Bedarida called the family’s “educational” vacations, which included visits to archaeological sites. On these trips, he and his family often viewed antique mosaics, he said, especially in Piazza Armerina on the island of Sicily, and Leptis Magna, a UNESCO World Heritage site in modern-day Libya.
“At about 9 years old,” Mr. Bedarida said, “I remember seeing mosaics of women from the Roman Empire wearing bikinis. The beauty of perfection, representing the ancient Roman landscapes with meticulous and vibrant colors, stayed with me when I discovered the micromosaics.”
Although the term micromosaic wasn’t widely used until the 1970s, when the prominent British-born collector Sir Arthur Gilbert popularized it, the art form was the result of the public’s taste for antiquities in the late 18th century.
According to Anna Coliva, a former director of the Borghese Gallery in Rome, the 1709 discovery of the ancient city of Herculaneum, buried under Vesuvius’ ash — along with the 1770s renovation of the Villa Borghese in Rome — captured public interest and created demand for the tiny tableaus. “It’s a very important step to becoming a ‘style,’ as it can be applied to ornaments such as furniture and furnishings, but also jewelry,” she wrote in an email.
The mosaics are made from fragments called tesserae, typically cut from glass or enamel. To achieve the desired dimensions, 18th-century artisans developed a technique to pull slender threads from malleable heated glass and then cut them into minute shards. Soon after, the Italian craftsmen realized that they could create souvenirs to sell to the wealthy Europeans and Americans taking what was then called the Grand Tour, through Florence, Rome, Venice and other cultural hubs.
Mr. Bedarida said he bought his first micromosaic, depicting ancient Roman ruins in Venice, in the early 1980s at Attilio Codognato, a jeweler on the Piazza San Marco, and he still patronizes the company. “When they get pieces, they call me,” he said. But, he noted, the micromosaics “are getting really rare and extremely expensive.”
When he started, he said, the prices ranged from 500 euros to 6,000 euros ($502 to $6,023); they now have crept up to €12,000 and even €30,000.
Mr. Bedarida’s collection now totals more than 30 pieces, 10 of which came to him after his mother’s death in 2020, and some of which have the same theme — the Colosseum, for example, is a favorite. While his micromosaics appear on necklaces, earrings, brooches, bracelets, rings, cuff links and paper weights, Mr. Bedarida said that pieces created using the technique had also been used to decorate small boxes and furniture, and that they might even be framed as wall hangings.
And what does he still hope to acquire? Mr. Bedarida said he would seize the chance to buy a piece from a company called Castellani, founded in 1814 in Rome by Fortunato Pio Castellani, considered by many to be the most famous maker of micromosaic jewelry. The business closed its doors in 1930, when Pio’s grandson Alfredo died.
Mr. Bedarida noted that his collection was far from finished. “Ask someone collecting for 30 or 40 years, and they will say it’s never complete,” he said.
In addition to Codognato in Venice, Mr. Bedarida’s favorite dealers include the auction house Hôtel Drouot in Paris; Quattrocolo, a jeweler in Rome; Sotheby’s; and Christie’s. In New York, he favors the Roman vintage jeweler Eleuteri, where he has found pieces designed by Marina Bulgari, the founder of Marina B, to add to the company’s archives. “They have great antique signed pieces,” he said. “They are the most well-known, really the best.”
Wagner Eleuteri, who now runs the business with his father, said Mr. Bedarida became a client in 2016, when he bought a micromosaic depicting a landscape of ancient Rome that included the Colosseum. “Guy is especially passionate about these, especially as jewelry,” Mr. Eleuteri wrote in a message.
Mr. Bedarida said his most recent acquisition was a pair of cuff links depicting the lion of St. Mark, the symbol of Venice.
Passing things to the next generation — in Mr. Bedarida’s case, to his nieces and nephews — has been his family’s tradition. His grandfather’s collection of Venetian glass and his father’s 18th- and 19th-century paintings of Mount Vesuvius have stayed in the family’s home in Tuscany, where his mother’s collection of 60 different cypress trees dot the scenery.
But Mr. Bedarida said he was not sure what he would do with his collection of micromosaics. He said he had considered donating it to museums such as the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), which holds part of the Gilbert Collection, a group of objets d’art donated by Sir Arthur Gilbert; the Palazzo Bonaparte or the Napoleonic Museum, both in Rome; or even the Vatican Museums. “On the other hand, it stirred my emotions seeing my mother wear them, because they come alive as jewelry,” he said.
Coincidentally, Mr. Bedarida has been considering what to do with another collection, too: the Indonesian tribal art and masks that he began accumulating when he moved to Bali in 1999 to work for, then to co-own, the jewelry brand John Hardy.
“I don’t want to get rid of the Indonesian collection, but it’s not tiny and fits in a safe like the micromosaics,” he said. “It’s cubic meters’ worth of beautiful things.”
Written by Roxanne Robinson
Link to article: https://www.nytimes.com/2022/08/29/fashion/jewelry-guy-bedarida-micromosaics.html
As seen on Bloomberg, George Harlow, a curator in the Division of Physical Sciences of the American Museum of Natural History, advocated for the renovation of the museum's Halls of Gems and Minerals for 20 years.
#NationalMuseum #Bloomberg #MarinaB #NewYork #HallofGems
]]>As seen on Bloomberg, George Harlow, a curator in the Division of Physical Sciences of the American Museum of Natural History, advocated for the renovation of the museum's Halls of Gems and Minerals for 20 years. “It felt more like I was in a mine or something,” he recalls, describing the numerous floors, brown interiors, and smaller cases. “The biggest problem probably was the lighting and the carpets,” It had deteriorated significantly since its last restoration in 1976.
The curator learned in 2014 that his two-decade-long campaign had finally paid off. Ralph Appelbaum Associates was hired by the museum to collaborate with the exhibition department to reimagine, reposition, and rearrange the space for the 21st century.
For the first time, the museum has installed a special gallery in its permanent hall of gems. The inaugural exhibition, “Beautiful Creatures,” was curated by the jewelry historian Marion Fasel. At the center of it is a vitrine showcasing jewels representing marine's life. The Virius pendant holds 9.7 carats of Pink Spinel, 5.58 carats of Buff top Citrine, 0.35 carats of round Citrine and 3.03 carats of pave diamonds mounted on 18K yellow gold, courtesy of Marina B, New York.
Now, the 11,000-square-foot Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals are ready to reopen to the public on June 12.
Spaces devoid of levels yet brimming with rare jewels await visitors. The new exhibition cases accommodate roughly 5,000 specimens in much better-lit walls of cases and vitrines than before. But Harlow has a tip: “You really need a little flashlight,” he says. “A lot of [minerals] want to be looked at as if the sun were behind you—gems want to be seen that way. So I tell everybody, ‘Bring a light, and your phone isn’t going to be good enough.’”
Harlow acquired this 12,000-pound amethyst geode from a Long Island gem merchant. It occupies the opposite end of the hall from its counterpart. “We have signature objects like these partially as attractors,” he says. They are “awesome objects, as well as things that get at this idea of scale and how things look in the Earth.”
One of the most awe-inspiring standalone objects, the Singing Stone, was part of the 1893 World’s Fair in Chicago. Dug from a mine in Bisbee, Ariz., it’s embedded with bright blue azurite and green malachite, two copper ore minerals. The name comes from the high pitched sounds the stone makes when the humidity changes. (The controlled environment of the museum means there are no more sounds to be heard.) “It weighs about 7,000 pounds, of which perhaps 2,000 is copper,” Harlow says. “This was given to us by one of the mine managers, and it’s been here since 1895.”
One of the main attractions of the hall was, and will continue to be, its myriad giant gemstones. The Star of India, with 563 carats, is the world’s largest known gem-quality blue star sapphire. The 100.3 carat DeLong Star Ruby came from Myanmar.
“Because of the special optics of stars and cat’s eyes, we’ve dedicated a single case to them,” Harlow says. “These are among our most impressive and well-known stones.”
The new gem hall is in the same place as the old one, “but it feels bigger, because there was a lot of space lost because of deep cases,” Harlow explains. “Part of the goal I had was to augment people looking at gems. This is true for all minerals and virtually all substances, but the idea was to assist people to understand what makes gems so attractive.”
Also in the hall is a giant piece of stibnite, a mineral used in the manufacture of matches, which weighs nearly half a ton.
One of the exhibit's key draws is the opportunity to discover how diverse minerals may be. “There are far more minerals on Earth than any other planets in the solar system,” Harlow says. He can say that confidently, he says, because “Earth is a dynamic planet. Rocky, terrestrial planets, none of them have active tectonics or real active volcanism going on, and that’s a driver of chemical differentiation,” he continues. “It allows you to have a more dynamic range of minerals.”
Water- and oxygen-producing minerals, he adds, also add to the Earth’s variety. “We have colorful minerals because oxygen stimulates higher oxidation states of metals, which have more color,” he explains. “Because of oxygen, we probably have 4,000 more minerals than any place else.”
The city itself has its own section. “New York is on metamorphic rock, so it’s rich in minerals,” Harlow says. “And it’s been dug up as if it were a giant quarry, so a lot of things have been brought to life. It’s amazing, the variety of minerals you can actually find in the city, mostly in Manhattan.” Queens and Brooklyn, he explains, are “mostly covered over by glacial till,” so most of the specimens the museum has from those boroughs came from water and subway tunnels.
The so-called Subway Garnet, a nine-pound almandine unearthed in 1885 beneath 35th Street between 7th Avenue and Broadway, is at the core of the exhibit. It turns out that the term is misleading: it was uncovered during sewage excavation.
Another slab, from Upstate New York's Gore Mountain, is studded with huge almandine garnet crystals that date back over a billion years. Approximately 5,000 artifacts are on display, with another 112,000 specimens in storage.
Instrumental in elevating the aesthetic acuities of iconic maisons such as Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels and John Hardy, veteran jewellery designer Guy Bedarida is once again working his magic – this time breathing new life into a beloved heritage brand, Marina B.
Renowned jewellery designer Guy Bedarida leaves a mark of sophistication wherever he goes, thanks to an inherent talent for the arts. Honed to excellence throughout his 25-year professional journey, this creative acumen helped raise the profiles of celebrated jewellers Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels and John Hardy where Bedarida worked as lead designer.
In 2017, he made a giant leap in his career and acquired Marina B – a revolutionary jewellery brand founded in 1976 by Marina Bulgari of the legendary Bulgari dynasty. “There is no woman more important to the world of jewellery than Marina Bulgari. I have followed her since the 1980s,” shared Bedarida. “I had to buy Marina B. I wanted to restore it to its former glory when Marina owned it and help it retain its DNA.”
Marina B is among a few heritage jewellery companies not owned by a conglomerate, which meant the brand’s identity remains intact, he continued. As owner and creative director, Bedarida is ushering in a rebirth of sorts at Marina B, one that preserves its opulent lineage while punctuating its latest collections with contemporary elements for a new generation of consumers.
Marina B
Born to the Bulgari clan in 1930, Marina had her destiny etched in stone from her early years. After working in the family business, she left to forge her own path and established Marina B.
Revered as one of the most influential female jewellers of the 20th century, Marina inspired the first generation of empowered, self-actualised women who purchased jewellery for themselves. Her creations – exuding understated sophistication and colourful expression – became an instant hit, winning favour among celebrities and members of the royal family.
This design trajectory lives on, with Bedarida at the helm of Marina B.
Journey of inspiration
Bedarida worked as head designer and creative director at John Hardy from 1999 to 2015. Prior to that, the Italian-born French designer was the artistic force behind exceptional jewellery pieces at Van Cleef & Arpels and Boucheron at Place Vendôme.
His passion for the craft however can be traced back to his youth, fuelled by exposure to various artists like painters, writers and architects, whom he met during overseas trips. His father then worked as a cultural attaché and would travel from embassy to embassy.
“Mine has been such a journey of love – love for jewellery, the process of learning and creativity,” Bedarida tells JNA.
He describes his design philosophy as “very sympatric, authentic and fluid.” As a designer, his process involves studying trends, but what ultimately influences his collections is creative instinct. For instance, he revealed that modern female consumers now place a premium on wearability and comfort, on top of attractiveness, when choosing a jewellery piece.
At Marina B, Bedarida envisions a company that democratises luxury through everyday jewellery collections while upholding its fundamental heritage and corporate character.
“I took Marina B’s essence and made it more relevant for the 21st century without losing sight of the founder’s vision,” he noted. Bedarida reinvented the company’s most emblematic collections such as Cardan, Trisola and Atomo to create fresh reiterations for contemporary end-consumers.
Visionary
Design fluidity and flexibility in choice of materials are crucial to staying relevant in the world of fine jewellery, according to Bedarida. By evolving and exploring different directions, jewellers can offer wider options to increasingly discerning buyers.
Marina B recently unveiled two new collections – Soleil and Trina – inspired by time-honoured themes and techniques polished to perfection over the years by the brand. Bedarida’s innovative take on symmetry and colour combination injects a dose of intricate luxury to the jewellery pieces.
Soleil, which takes influence from the Sun collection launched 40 years ago by Marina B, alludes to the promise of hope and tomorrow – hence the tagline, “The Sun Always Returns.”
The collection was being developed when the coronavirus pandemic struck, making it even more relevant today.
Described by the designer as “bold and happy,” Soleil features 18-karat gold jewellery with diamonds and a smiling sun emblem on silver coins. These price-point items are expected to generate interest among a diverse range of clients.
Refined open-work detail is the crux of the Trina collection. The jewellery pieces draw attention to geometric, chestnut-shaped holes – another signature Marina B style – in 18-karat gold accentuated with pavé diamonds. The ultra-feminine pieces, formed like undulating laces, are the “21st century interpretation” of Marina’s favoured shape. The light, delicate and playful contours rest beautifully on a woman’s neck or wrists, easily complementing any look.
The new consumer
Marina B is likewise embarking on a digital journey, taking advantage of homebound clients’ penchant for social media and online shopping. The company recently revamped its digital platform, quickly attracting more traffic. Its Instagram page is also seeing improved activity, with online customers regularly viewing products and making purchases.
“Innovation keeps the brand fresh. Customers have become partial to change, especially in the digital age,” noted Bedarida. “The digital world has never been more important to the jewellery sector since Covid-19. We must have a strong presence on social media. That is also our focus.”
Pre-coronavirus, statement jewellery pieces were in high demand, but the pandemic completely changed the way people perceive jewellery. Buyers are now mostly looking for everyday jewellery pieces that convey consolation and tempered luxury.
At Marina B, collections such as Trisolina – Bedarida’s modern interpretation of the popular Trisola line created by Marina – corresponds to this longing for contemplation and simplicity. Set in 18-karat gold and diamond accents, Trisolina features the iconic Italian Tubogas design. “Our jewellery provides people with hope and positivity. Consumers are looking for ways to spend responsibly, but it still needs to be fun for them,” he added.
Sustainability is also taking precedence in the jewellery community. According to him, jewellers – who contribute to the world through artistic expression – have a renewed sense of responsibility for Mother Earth and a commitment to giving back to society.
With customers becoming more ethically conscious, the demand for jewellery that is as pleasing to the eye as it is environment-friendly is on the rise.
Moving forward, Bedarida is laying the groundwork for the La Casa collection as well as a men’s jewellery line. La Casa, a fast-growing assortment of design-centric jewellery pieces, presents gift ideas for those spending most of their time at home. The men’s collection meanwhile stems from Bedarida’s love for wearing jewellery – a way of infusing his own aesthetic direction into the Marina B brand.
“Designing men’s jewellery is a natural direction for me as I myself enjoy donning bracelets, pendants or cufflinks,” he noted. “Jewellery for men is definitely making a comeback.”
]]>COIN COLLECTOR
From 17th-century Venetian glass intaglios to ancient Roman and Buddhist signets, designers look to historical and mythological references to create meaningful new interpretations.
While high jewelry remains at the core of the brand, Bedarida has decided to enlarge its offering by introducing in the Soleil collection more affordable, easy-to-wear pieces. “Soleil is more approachable both in terms of price points and looks,” said Bedarida, who conceived the collection in Bangkok, which he could not depart for beginning in March due to the spread of the pandemic. “I was traveling there to buy gems and Thailand suddenly closed the borders and I had no chance to leave the country. During my quarantine there, I had the idea of this jewelry range, which is based on Marina’s use of sun as a symbol of optimism and hope.”
Crafted from yellow gold combined with silver and gems, including tiny emeralds, and retailing at an average price of $4,000, Soleil features sun-shaped pendants, necklaces, earrings and rings that evoke Southern Italy’s maiolica teals. The inspiration is directly linked to the Marina B heritage and Bedarida’s life, since the jeweler, who previously was creative director at John Hardy and held creative executive positions at Van Cleef & Arpels and Boucheron, was raised between Tuscany, Rome, Naples and Paris.
The Soleil collection, which is previewed on the brand’s e-store, will be available during the holiday season at the Lyla Dumont fashion store in St. Barths, where Bedarida will also meet consumers for a trunk show under the palms.
“For the launch of Soleil I wanted to try something different in terms of distribution, teaming up with a fashion store and I will adopt this strategy also
in the United States,” said Bedarida, adding that the jewelry range will be available beginning at the March at the brand’s historic partners, including Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus. “Before bringing the collection to St. Barth’s, we made a test in California and in two weeks we had an 80 percent sell-through, which makes me very optimistic about the success of this product range,” Bedarida added. Some of the Soleil pieces feature a signature element of Marina B creations the tubo gas flexible construction that wraps around the body, which characterizes the designs of the Trisolina signature collection, a bestseller among Asian male consumers, according to Bedarida. “There, men wear the Trisolina bracelet with the Cartier Love one,” he said.
While the U.S. is still the brand’s main market, Bedarida is developing new partnerships in the Far East, with a focus on Singapore and China. “Three months ago we hosted our first show in China in an art gallery in Beijing and the feedback has been great,” he said. “Now it’s time to understand who is the best partner to develop a solid distribution there.”
However, even if the brand is developing more accessible collections, including the La Casa interior design accessories and gifts range, to reinforce its identity across international markets, customization remains Bedarida’s biggest passion. “There is nothing that makes me happier than sitting down with a customer and designing with her her own jewelry piece,” said the designer, who, COVID-19 permitting, from January to April will travel across Florida, California and Texas to host trunk shows.
]]>
Bagues onyx avec émeraude, saphir bleu birman
et Rubellite, or jaune, pavées de diamants.
s’est éloignée pour voler de ses propres ailes. Durant vingt ans, sa marque va innover (les bijoux sur ressort, les sphères sans fils visibles), séduire (la couleur, le confort des pièces) et imposer un style italien que les fashionistas du monde entier, notamment les plus célèbres et les plus riches, vont s’arracher. Guy Bedarida, lui, dessine des bijoux depuis sa plus tendre enfance. Ce Franco-Italien a tout appris avec monsieur Boucheron, place Vendôme. Puis, à New York, il a fait exploser VanCleef&Arpels, devenant le dessinateur star de ce petit monde fait de pierres précieuses et d’or. L’homme a même osé
«Mon objectif n’est pas de devenir énorme.
J’ai envie de rester confidentiel et unique»
démissionner de Van Cleef pour prendre en charge, à Bali, la création de John Hardy, marque de bijoux de luxe créée par un hippie canadien tombé amoureux de l’île. Une expérience extraordinaire qui conduira Guy Bedarida à racheter la marque avant de la revendre en2015. «C’est alors qu’a surgi l’opportunité Marina B, raconte-t-il. C’était une belle endormie, que Marina Bulgari, fatiguée de courir le monde, avait vendue à un riche Saoudien. Celui-ci n’en a finalement rien fait, et la marque s’était quasiment arrêtée en2002. Moi, j’en rêvais depuis des années et j’ai pu racheter MarinaB! The dream come true!» De sa retraite romaine, Marina Bulgari se réjouit de cette renaissance et se raconte à un Guy Bedarida, ravi de voir «le mythe» le conseiller. Les nostalgiques sont aux anges et les millennials plébiscitent la marque. «Nous proposons trois collections, explique le designer, une série limitée d’objets de haute joaillerie, très précieux, avec des saphirs, des émeraudes et un peu de diamants. Une collection classique pour tous les jours, féminine et colorée, et une collection millennials, LaTrisolina, plus urbaine, avec des bijoux plus confortables et que l’on peut porter le jour et la nuit.» Ces jours-ci, apparaît également une nouvelle ligne baptisée Trina, d’inspiration baroque italien, très colorée, très belle. Les ventes se font désormais «on line» via le site de la marque, et la boutique new-yorkaise a laissé place à un salon de réception en étage, plus exclusif. La marque est toutefois très bien distribuée aux Etats-Unis, notamment chez Saks, chez Neiman Markus, temple du luxe, et dans plusieurs concept stores du pays. «Bien sûr, je rêve d’ouvrir une boutique à Paris, mais pour l’instant nous organisons des événements privés à travers le monde (dont un à à l’Hôtel Costes), à la rencontre de nos clients. Mon objectif n’est pas de devenir énorme. J’ai envie de rester confidentiel et unique.»
Bague «Vulci», onyx, saphir, or jaune et améthyste. Bague «Cassia», onyx, or jaune et émeraude. Bague «Vulci», onyx, saphir, or jaune et améthyste. Manchette «Sabina», or jaune, pain de sucre tanzanite, onyx, émeraudes et diamants, collection «Trisola». Triple manchette, or jaune et diamants.
When celebrated jewelry designer Guy Bedarida bought MarinaB, he made a longstanding dream come true. MarinaB was the granddaughter of Sotirios Voùlgaris, the founder of Bulgari, and created her eponymous house in 1978, pioneering new techniques that brought her success for over 20 years. But by the time Bedarida – who has designed for Boucheron in Paris, VanCleef&Arpels in New York – came along, MarinaB was no longer. So he brought it back to life, with the blessing of the “legendary” Marina Bulgari herself. “We have three collections,” the designer explains, “a limited-edition series of high jewelry objects, using precious stones like emeralds, sapphires, and diamonds; a feminine and colorful ‘everyday’ collection; and La Trisolina, a collection for millennials that can be worn day and night.”
#Guy Bedarida #Marina B #Marina Bulgari #jewellery #VanCleef&Arpels #Trisolina
]]>
Suddenly the world seemed to spin out of control when the global pandemic hit. In order to fight Covid 19 pandemic, the country isolated itself from the world. No more international flights and all airports were closed. Guy found himself locked down in Thailand where he would have to ride out the long storm that was to follow.
Guy Bedarida
Luckily, thanks to Marina B and Muzo emerald Colombia collaboration he had with him a great selection of gorgeous Muzo emeralds. Guy always looks to the positive, so knowing he was going to be in Bangkok for an undefined time he embraced the beauty and wonder of the land. He spent days and weeks designing and exploring, always looking for new inspiration. The beauty of the Muzo emeralds, the unique color, and the nice Marina B chestnut shape were ideal for creativity.
Jewelry was of course the first thought but thinking that people around the world will enjoy their homes more than before, the precious home objects was a natural next step. Marina Bulgari had designed home décor that spoke to the world she lived in. Guy thought now is the time to design for the world he lives in, during this moment of uncertainty while people are forced to stay at home to protect themselves and their families from the pandemic. What Guy knew was that while at home people still want to be surrounded by beauty and luxury even more so now. "la Casa" of one of a kind and limited edition home objects collection was born to give people hope, to offer them beauty, and most importantly to show that the world will get through this.
The collaboration between Marina B and Muzo emerald Colombia is sympatric with beliefs and practices of sustainable responsibility a profound message that is a global theme. Muzo emeralds are among the most respected in the world, they are never exposed to aggressive toxic substances when mined. Additionally, Muzo Emerald Colombia supports women in the workplace. Women have long been excluded from the patriarchal system but now they play an active role in the life of the mines through direct and indirect job opportunities. Guy has been throughout his career as a supporter of women's empowerment in all areas of the industry. Furthermore, his mission as creative director of Marina B is to build upon the designs of Marina Bulgari’s most iconic collections and her legacy. Marina Bulgari has long been considered one of the most important women jewelry designers of the 20th century.
#Guy Bedarida #Covid19 #Marina B #Marina Bulgari #jewellery #Muzo #Strides in sustainability #Quarantine in Thailand
]]>In just a few decades, Marina Bulgari has built her house among the biggest thanks to a new approach to luxury. More personal, brighter, and more laid back. Since Guy Bedarida took over the reins of this sleeping beauty, he perpetuates this aesthetic through creations with glamor always very Italian: cabochon rings, jewelry on spring, 70’s necklaces ..., very gently keeping the same line, tells us -t it. In the world of jewelery, Marina Bulgari is considered one of the most outstanding women of her time. An adventurous and ambitious spirit who did not hesitate to leave the famous Family House, founded by his grandfather, to stand on his own feet and launch his House in 1976.
Determined and able to make a name while honoring the passion and talent of her family, she has made her unique style a brand world famous for its audacity and timelessness. Since her first creations for the house Bulgari, and for almost 20 years, she has continued to innovate without ever bothering the diktats of fashion. She turned the gold and the stones she had at her fingertips into daring jewels. His irreverence for color codes, the choice of stones and mixtures of materials have made his creations, rich and opulent, easily identifiable. With success, she opened her first showroom in Geneva in 1978, then boutiques in Milan, Paris and New York. She quickly built up a reputation as solid as the stones that she happily distilled on rings, necklaces and bracelets. The great ladies have not been mistaken. Her name echoed in the hollow of the necklines and tinted at the wrist of the stars of her time, including Sophia Loren, Elisabeth Taylor or Grace Kelly. Marina B’s modern vision and creative excellence inspired a first generation of women to buy their own jewelery. For the past 3 years, Guy Bedarida has brought the brand into the present, with perfectly adapted collections that continue to embrace Marina’s innovative aesthetic: I dreamed for years to revive the Marina B brand and give it back its glory. ‘yesteryear’, explains the creative director.
Franco-Italian, and figurehead of the contemporary jewel, he draws jewelry since his childhood. With more than 25 years of experience, he began his career on the famous Place Vendôme, as a designer for Boucheron, then in New York at Van Cleef & Arpels, before joining John Hardy as Creative Director. from 1999 to 2015 in Bali. Under her leadership, Marina B’s rich heritage and craftsmanship are honored as well as enhanced with vintage-inspired but resolutely modern jewelry. From a stone, he sketches a few sketches, then come the details to the gouache. Today, the Marina B creations are divided into 3 partitions: the Haute Joaillerie collection, in limited series, which highlights the beauty of the most precious stones and the ancestral know-how (Sabina, Flavia, Onyx, Emilia); the Classic and feminine jewelery collection, to be worn in a relaxed atmosphere according to the values of the house (cardan, pendants, trisola, tire, Atomo, Onda); and the Piccolina collection, millennials and more urban, to wear everyday (Trisolina, mini Atomo, Luna). Like the founder, women, their extravagance, their style and their attitude, inspire. A new generation of beloved women from Marina B can once again.
#Design Excellence Fine Jewelry Winner #Marina B #GuyBedarida #Marina Bulgari #Trisola
]]>After stints at Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels and John Hardy, jewelry designer Guy Bedarida took over as creative director and majority shareholder at the storied Italian jewelry house Marina B in 2017. The move not only allowed Bedarida to return to his Italian roots—his mother is from Florence and he spent some time growing up in Italy—but it also solidified him in a role that would allow him to take full reign both creatively and financially. His latest endeavor, a richly hued collection with Muzo emeralds, was realized during the designer’s unexpected quarantine at his home in Bangkok, Thailand.
Twice a year, Bedarida visits the country to source gemstones. “It’s kind of one of the world’s hubs for colored stones,” he says. “Everything, whether it’s produced in Asia or Africa or South America, always end up in Thailand. I was in America, France, Italy and Turkey and then I arrived here and all of a sudden the world collapsed and I got stuck.” He found himself unable to leave the country due to the developing Covid-19 crisis, but the extra time in the tropical locale proved fruitful thanks to a lot of Muzo emeralds he had brought with him in order to pair with other colored stones. “It was a strange situation, but you know there could be worse things, because Thailand is an amazing country,” says Bedarida. “The people are very nice and the climate is great. It ended up that there are also opportunities here.”
Marina B x Muzo Emerald Earrings
and Box Courtesy of Marina B
The native flora and fauna in Bangkok proved the perfect setting for his stash of Muzo emeralds. “My garden has all shades of green, so every day when I woke up everything was so beautiful and crisp,” says Bedarida. “I have a banana tree that has three different levels of green in the leaves. They call it the camouflage banana tree and it’s quite rare.” But time spent during his childhood in the Mediterranean sea, inspired the rich turquoise he paired with the cabochon emeralds to create a collection of 25 one-of-a-kind pieces, which also includes pieces with pink tourmaline stones. The range includes both jewelry and objects for the home, such as boxes and letter openers, ranging in price from $2,450 to $24,500.
Guy Bedarida’s Garden; Marina B x Muzo Emerald Earrings
While the design of the collection took shape in Thailand, Bedarida had long been wanting to work with Muzo emeralds, not only for the Colombian mine’s strides in sustainability and efforts to support its local community, but also for their superior quality. “They are most famous first for their color and then the quality of their crystal and for their shape and dimensions,” says Bedarida. “There are beautiful emeralds coming from other countries, but Muzo is really the crème de la crème.”
Credit : https://robbreport.com/style/jewelry/marina-b-has-a-stunning-new-collection-with-muzo-emeralds-1234572658/
#Marina B #Marina Bulgari #jewellery #Muzo #Robb Report #Strides in sustainability #Quarantine in Thailand
]]>Widely regarded as one of the most important women in jewelry design in the 20th century, Marina Bulgari left the family’s famous Maison in 1976 to launch the Marina B brand. The granddaughter of Sotirio Bulgari, Marina had an innate sense of design as well as boundless energy and enthusiasm, all of which enabled her to forge a new path and find her true calling. Marina directed her creativity into designing exceptional jewelry: unique, bold, and timeless. She developed her own style, rooted in the Bulgari tradition yet distinctive andhighly recognizable.
Marina opened her first showroom in Geneva in 1978 and held exhibitions in Monte Carlo, Gstaad, and St. Moritz. She quickly gained popularity, allowing her to open stores in Milan, Paris, and New York, and her creations became favorites among the international jet set and even royalty, all of whom helped make Marina B the must-have jewelry for the world’s most fashionable women. Her signature designs, fine materials, and craftsmanship appealed to a new generation of confident, successful, and stylish ladies.
Today, Marina B is pioneered by the creative direction of Guy Bedarida, who has collected more than 25 years’ experience in the industry. He was head designer and creative director at John Hardy (1999–2015) after which he worked at Van Cleef & Arpels, creating one-of-a-kind pieces for celebrities and VIPs. His passion for sparkling jewelry goes back to time spent between Paris, Rome, and Tuscany as a youngster. “I was surrounded by many beautiful things growing up,” explains Bedarida, whose father hailed from Paris and mother from Florence. “My father was a cultural attaché, traveling from embassy to embassy, and because of his job, I was exposed to painters, writers, and architects,” says Guy. “Jewellery was an especially big part of my childhood. My mother inherited pieces from her family, and my father would gift her the most exquisite jewels. I was fascinated by gemstones and the beauty of these little pieces of art.” Some of Marina B’s most exquisite pieces include the Onda Collar from the brand’s Classic Collection and the Salvia Cuff from its High Jewelry Collection. Onda means “wave” in Italian, and the pavé diamond motifs in this collection are decorated with strands of gold resembling waves rolling through the pavé. The collection of triple-wrap bracelets, cuffs, collars, statement rings, and earrings is offered in both 18k yellow and white gold, perfect for special occasions. Meanwhile, the Salvia Cuff is a chunky piece of jewelry made up of 21.8 carats of a cushion
of natural Colombian emerald alongside buff-top emeralds.
With his reputation, impeccable design flair, and anartful pair of eyes, Marina B is experiencing a rebirth with Guy Bedarida on board. New collections have been inspired by the brand’s signature styles, giving it its boldness and color to appeal to a new generation of discerning clients.
Credit : Indonesia tatler, October 2019
Marina B was Born from the adventurous and ambitious spirit of Marina Bulgari. Bulgari is widely regarded as one of the most important women in jewellery design in the 20th century. She left her family’s famed Maison in 1976 to launch her brand. Determined and able to make her own name whilst honouring her family’s nurtured passion and talented heritage, Bulgari’s unique style became world-renown for its boldness and timelessness. Rich and opulent yet very contemporary, Marina invented her own gemstone cuts in addition to reinventing many others. She successfully opened her first showroom in Geneva in 1978, which led to boutiques in Milan, Paris and New York and a worldwide clientele. Marina B’s modern vision and creative excellence inspired a first generation of women purchasing jewels for themselves.
In its present day, creative director Guy Bedarida brings the brand into the right now, with beautifully fitting collections that continue to embrace Bulgari’s innovative aesthetic. “The cultural landscape of my childhood is my greatest inspiration”, says Bedarida.
Bedarida, a French-Italian native, is a leading figure in contemporary jewellery with over 25 years of experience. Under his direction, Marina B’s rich design heritage and reputation of impeccable workmanship is honoured as much as further expanded, so that a new generation of Marina B’s cherished clients can ‘shine bright and be brilliant’.
The Collections Trisola embodies quintessential Italian jewellery, supplement featuring the Tubogas. The dynamic three- dimensional form crafted in 18K Gold, wraps fluidly around the wrists and fingers, accented with tips of diamonds, emeralds, rubies or sapphires. Made exclusively by hand in the unique Marina B cut, the highly engineered internal spring mechanism allows for increased flexibility, whilst ensuring sublime finishes. This assertive collection is a true representation of the powerful personality of the Marina B brand and made in Italy.
Trisolina
Using Trisola as inspiration, Bedarida developed his distinctive handwriting to create an unequivocally forward-looking first collection, Trisolina. Hand-made in Italy in 18K gold and diamonds, Trisolina sensual feel comfortable, feminine, Trisolina is designed for the 21st century and marks the evolution of the Marina B brand. Bedarida introduces chokers, a reference to the very best from the Marina B archives; continuous uncompromising modern luxury. This alluring collection is the epitome of life in jewels.
Pampilles
Marina B’s collection perfectly blends classic and unconventional creating stunning, bold pieces. First created in the 70s for Elizabeth Taylor Pampille earrings all in diamond did it’s a debut at the Academy Awards with the star. The new titanium pampilles earrings with natural turquoises is a modern interpretation of Bedarida.
#Marina B #Marina Bulgari #Trisolina #CollectionsTrisola #jewellery
The Accessories Council announced the winners of its second annual Design Excellence Awards on Thursday, via Zoom.
The Fine Jewelry Design Award went to Marina B for its luxe coiled Trisolina bracelet (pictured). While the Fashion Jewelry Award was given to BaubleBar for its beaded BaubleBar bracelet.
Moissanite jewelry brand Charles & Colvard won the Sustainability Award, a category that included shoes and handbags, for its Forever One moissanite emerald-cut ring .
Fourteen thousand people voted on designs for the awards, which were created by the Accessories Council in 2019 to expand the recognition of outstanding products across categories as determined by vote.
2020 Design Excellence Fine Jewelry Winner,
Marina B Trisolina Diamond 10 Row Bangle
Credit : https://accessoriescouncil.org/news/here-are-the-jewelry-designs-that-won-accessories-council-awards
#Design Excellence Fine Jewelry Winner #Marina B# Trisolina Diamond 10 Row Bangle